Sunday, May 18, 2008

Valley Inn Tavern, Heathcote

I wrote and illustrated ‘The Good Old Kiwi Pub’. It was published in 1995. It’s a snapshot of some New Zealand pubs as they were at the end of the 20th century. I have decided to share some of the entries from the book from time to time on this blog.


Much history lies in and around the Heathcote Valley and most of it is to do with the fact that the Christchurch settlement had, as its deep water harbour, the flooded crater of an extinct volcano - Lyttleton Harbour. When the first settlers arrived in 1850 they had to tramp up a precipitous bridle path to the saddle above Heathcote, from which they could gaze down into the estuary of the Heathcote and Avon rivers and across the tussocked Canterbury Plains to the Southern Alps.

It didn’t take the newcomers long to realize that a railway tunnel through the hills would make life easier and, amazingly, within nine years of the pioneers’ arrival trial shafts were being sunk by the English contractor’s agents. The first sod of the tunnel’s construction was turned on 1 7 July 1861 in the Heathcote Valley and the first passenger train ran through on 9 December 1867. The second tunnel was built in 1964 for road traffic, and a recently constructed gondola cableway now makes light of the old bridle path. Thus what should have been a peaceful valley enjoying its micro-climate - so favourable for orcharding - became an increasingly important artery between port and city.

The Valley Inn, I was assured, originated as an accommodation house for the workers on the Lyttleton Rail Tunnel; but the house was built in 1870, three years after the tunnel opened. The truth of it is that the workers were building a 500 000 gallon reservoir 65 metres above sea level on Te Tihi o Kahukura, otherwise known as Castle Rock,- overlooking Heathcote Valley. It was the town supply for Lyttleton and its water was piped through the railway tunnel.

In 1877 the Valley Inn, with its trapeziform rooms and not a right-angle anywhere, became a licensed hotel. Out the back, beyond the garden where they hang the bar towels to dry, you can still see the original stables; in the lounge bar is an old, brick lined, artesian well, sunk in the 1860s, from which they drew water for the animals working on the tunnel - or was it the reservoir?

© DON DONOVAN


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Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Provincial Hotel, Christchurch

I wrote and illustrated ‘The Good Old Kiwi Pub’. It was published in 1995. It’s a snapshot of some New Zealand pubs as they were at the end of the 20th century. I have decided to share some of the entries from the book from time to time on this blog

The east side of Christchurch city lacks the leafy charm of the Hagley Park end where government and university buildings confidently - and with a distinct air of superiority - reflect a stately English heritage. The pity of it is that the Provincial Hotel rubs shoulders with dreary, small manufacturing units and industrial warehouses rather than being at the ‘hotter end’ of town for, architecturally, it is one of the more unusual pubs in New Zealand and would look well among willows on the grassy banks of the Avon.

It has been described as ‘Dutch-style’ but just what mode it really expresses is a bit of a mystery. Records show that its architects were Clarkson and Ballantyne - two good Canterbury names - but I suspect that the job was given to a promising young designer who, to show off his potential, mixed vaguely Elizabethan and Jacobean styles and threw in some baroque cartouches and Georgian windows to produce what I can only describe as an enormous piece of architectural fun.

The first licence on this site was granted to Robert Warner in 1865 but the present pub probably dates from 1904 as tenders were called for the ‘re-building of the Provincial Hotel’ in 1902, and a report produced in 1968 reads that it was ‘approx. 64 years old’. I have not been able to determine the reason why it should have required re-building but destruction by fire is the most likely.

© DON DONOVAN

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Thursday, April 12, 2007

The Eel Story

 

Having lost the Land-Rover in the hills west of Hanmer (see ‘One Lost Land Rover’) and having shamefacedly returned to Christchurch Dr. Roger Nicoll, Robin Smith and I licked our wounds at Robin’s photographic studio in Cashel Street. It was two floors above Tisdall’s (as the management of that sports shop was well aware, having been flooded out on more than one occasion when prints, left overnight, had blocked the overflow outlet from the dark room’s washing tank).

Robin and Roger were waiting for Roger’s wife, Anne, to pick them up. My car had been parked in Cashel Street all day outside Mrs Pope’s knitting establishment. Sharing the studio was a well-known freelance journo., Mr John Drew. John was something of an inquiline at times and if his filing cabinet ever unexpectedly turned up in your office you knew he’d not only vacated his previous quarters but would stick to yours like a rock oyster. This afternoon he got a scoop, the story of our ill-fated Hanmer hills expedition which he duly wrote up for the ‘Press’.

Over a week later he was to write another story in the Press’s ‘Random Reminder’ column under the heading ‘Stinking Fish’ but because of the people involved it had to be cloaked in fable. I shall now re-tell it naming names. Surely I shan’t be sued for libel? (In any case, the greater the truth, the greater the libel!)

Anne Nicoll duly collected Roger and Robin and we parted company, I to drive home to Governor’s Bay while they headed toward Fendalton. As they turned into Cathedral Square they were astonished to see a cyclist ahead of them carrying a large eel on his parcel tray. As they watched, the eel slowly slid off the tray and fell on to the road in front of the Post Office. They did a complete circuit of the square and came back to where the fish still lay. So, almost without stopping, they scooped it up and took it to Robin’s temporary flat near Victoria Street.

The first I knew of the eel was when a slightly malodorous cardboard package arrived on the desk in my office in the Mercantile Gazette Building in Madras Street. As I worked my way through layers of newspaper the smell increased until the ghastly, coiled, one metre long, silvery-yellowy thing was revealed. It is, perhaps, indicative of my relationship with Nicoll and Smith that I had no doubt where it had come from and by the next morning I had quietly installed the re-wrapped anguilla in Dr. Nicoll’s surgery waiting room in Worcester Street.

I had a lunch date with him that same day at which although there was a certain archness between us nothing eely was discussed; in any event, the conversation was adequately dominated by our recent Hanmer experience. However, leaving the ‘Copper Kettle’ early, I discovered that the stinking fish was once again in my possession, in my car. Anxious to rid myself of its pestilence and keen to expand the circle of sufferers I took it, without unwrapping it, to Euan Sarginson’s sandwich bar which was a shop annexe to his cousin Bill’s Apex Tyre Company premises, where Euan employed, as slave labourers, his mother Sheila and aunty Mona, to mass produce mountains of ham and cheese sandwiches to feed the local workers.

God knows how long it was before either Euan or the ladies discovered the source of the stench but I had Euan on the phone to me next day, he having no doubt that I was the perpetrator. He was furious! ‘This is a food establishment,’ he screamed, ‘I could be shut down by the health department. How irresponsible could you be?’

I realized I’d gone too far so immediately went to apologize and to explain that while I had done him evil I was not the principal culprit and that although I had no actual proof, I was certain that Nicoll and Smith were at the root of it.

Mollified, Euan agreed to join me in raising the stakes. Robin Smith was only in New Zealand for a short time until he was due to leave for another in a series of overseas photographic expeditions. From Australia he had brought a Holden station wagon into the country which he intended to sell at a profit just as soon as a panel beater off Bealey Avenue had cleaned out the red dust of Ayers Rock and restored it to ‘showroom condition’. We took the eel, now extra wrapped in a plastic bag positively bulging with gasses, to the panel beaters’ and, unobserved, slid it into the open back hatch of the Holden.

Shortly thereafter Robin received a telephone call in which he was politely asked to remove his vehicle from the panel beaters’ premises as something extremely offensive was nauseating the valet cleaners to such an extent that they were refusing to work on it.

Things were getting serious, a bigger game was afoot, a new chapter was about to be written.

I, innocent in my office, had need to see a client and so walked out to where my VW beetle was parked in Madras Street. I started the engine and was immediately overwhelmed by a disgusting, noisome odour emanating from the primitive air supply system. I opened doors and windows and fled the car, my gorge rising. I sat on a low wall for some time, gathering myself, and then opened the engine compartment at the rear of the beetle to discover  the eel, wrapped serpentinely around the horizontally opposed air-cooled cylinders, its skin now ruptured obscenely while a colony of unspeakable larvae undulated over its surface. A note was attached which read, ‘One needs water, the other one doesn’t’. Can you imagine what it took for me to remove that vile thing and re-package it?

One week after the eel had slid from the fisherman’s bicycle tray Robin Smith found a box on the doorstep of his flat. It was accompanied by several squadrons of blowflies thinking that all their Saturdays had come at once. Sometime later I dropped in at his place - just a courtesy call such as Pooh might have made upon Christopher Robin. (You must remember, dear reader, that up to this point Nicoll and Smith had neither revealed to me any involvement in this revolting saga, nor I to them). From the garden at the back of his flat I could see black smoke rising. Pushing open the garden gate, saw him in the process of having a big burn-up in one of those oil drum incinerators.

‘Good morning, Robin’ I greeted him cheerily.

He acknowledged me with what I thought was a less than ebullient response.

All small boys enjoy a good fire and so, silently, we watched as the sparks, smoke and flames emerged from the drum and flew into the still morning air. Then, as if to promise to haunt us until the end of our days, the eel, or what remained of it, sinuated slowly out of the air vent at the bottom of the incinerator to lie at our feet, slimy, bloated and half charred. The game, at last, was over.

But it has haunted us. Here we are, old men, over forty years on, and we still remind each other of the eel story.

© DON DONOVAN

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